The Peru Gazette

By John T. Ryan (Please Share) 

The global COVID-19 pandemic has impacted American businesses in many ways, few more so than dine-in restaurants. Peru is fortunate to have four locally-owned dine-in restaurants – Green Acres Restaurant, Livingood’s Restaurant and Brewery, The Mariner Bar and Grill, and Pasquales Restaurant and Bar. They have not escaped the pandemic’s impact, but they’re battling back. 

Green Acres Restaurant, famous for its sumptuous breakfasts and lunches, has been especially hard hit. Owner Donna Rowley commented, “When they approved outdoor dining, we didn’t have it, and take-out doesn’t work for the breakfast business.” Rowley employed three full-time staff three or four days a week before the March 20th pandemic shutdown. Today those staff members might work one day a week. Sometimes only Rowley and a cook are working. Business is also unpredictable. Some days very few people stop for breakfast, while the numbers are much higher on other days. The number can never get very high because restaurants have to restrict their number of patrons to 50% of capacity meaning Green acres can’t have more than 21 patrons at any given time. All this is happening while everyday business expenses continue (rent, insurance, utilities, etc.) and food and supply costs increase.

Loyal customers keep Donna Rowley going. She stated, “My customers have stuck with me. People are telling me they don’t want me to give up. Some customers have even offered to help. My customers make me not want to give up. I will not shut my doors because of COVID. I’m as persistent as it is.” 

Livingood’s co-managers Gary Morette and Jody Renaudette took over the restaurant on April 20th last year, just as the pandemic numbers increased. Take-out only requirements and outdoor dining only restrictions severely impacted sales. Then they encountered take-out only dining restrictions. Fortunately for them, the 50% capacity restriction imposed in mid-June hasn’t had a significant impact because the restaurant is very large. Nevertheless, the in-door patron numbers are down, resulting in staff lay-offs. Pre-pandemic Livingood’s had as many as 24 staff members. Today it has seven or eight personnel, including Gary and Jody. Jody commented, “It’s not as bad now. We wish it were busier. We’re patient. We understand that some people are still scared to come in.” 

Livingood’s is battling back. A few weeks ago, they began canning their array of fine craft beers.  People can now purchase their beer in 16-ounce cans in the restaurant and at several local convenience stores. Gary said, “We’re pleased with can sales. It’s been better than we expected.” 

On November 6, 2019, Brandon Way and Teresa Larson opened the Mariner Bar and Grill on Route 9 overlooking Lake Champlain at Dana’s Rusty Anchor’s former location. The business was rapidly growing before the March shutdown took effect. Brandon commented, “We tried to stay open for three weeks, but we hadn’t built a take-out business. The food we sell doesn’t travel well.”  

Like everyone else, Way and Larson had to lay off several staff members. When the state permitted restaurants to open at 50% capacity in June, the staff returned. Brandon said, “It went wonderfully at 50% because we have so many 6-chair tables. Most restaurants have 4-chair tables. Our capacity went from 120 to 60.” Business was excellent until around Thanksgiving when COVID numbers started climbing. Brandon said, “A large group of our regulars stopped coming. I’ll never fault our people for staying home. People need to take it upon themselves as to what they need to do to stay healthy.” 

Responding to the sales decline, the partners decided to close on Wednesdays and Thursdays. Today they operate on Fridays and Saturdays from 4 p.m. to 8 p.m. Brandon explained, “We had to reduce working days to keep our customers and staff healthy and to stay profitable. Fortunately, regular and new customers have been coming on Friday and Saturday to the point where today the Mariner’s two-day sales total equals what they had been doing in four days.  

Pasquale’s Restaurant owners Jerry Johnson and Dave Hamilton have also faced many challenges. COVID capacity limits especially hurt during the football season. Dave commented, “We would usually be packed on Saturdays and Sundays during the high school and NFL season. We went from serving 200 to 300 to serving 50 or 60. Luckily the take-out and delivery supplemented some of that business.” Pasquale’s always offered take-out and delivery, but these services have increased dramatically. Jerry said, “It’s gone from a dozen orders to hundreds. We sold more wings in one night than we’ve ever sold before.”

What’s been their most significant challenge? Jerry responded, “The mental challenge of trying to run the business and take care of as many employees as possible. It’s been worrisome, not just getting the virus, but trying to stop the business from going bankrupt.” Before the pandemic, Jerry and Dave had twenty-eight staff members. Last fall, they had as few as eight. Today they have fourteen. Jerry Johnson commented, “It’s been terrible having to lay off the longtime staff. We kept our full-time staff. Everyone’s been multi-tasking. People who used to answer phones have turned into delivery drivers.” Fortunately, the partners say they’ve been smart about their money. They’ve never discussed closing, and they’ve paid all the bills on time. 

Restaurants have also been facing increased food costs and shortages. At one point, Pasquales feared that chicken wings might not be available in time for the Super Bowl Weekend. Ultimately they got the wings but with a 20% price increase.

All the restaurant managers and owners interviewed are very grateful to their staff, whom they often refer to as family, and to the local community, friends, and loyal customers. As Brandon Way said, “I’ve lived all over America. I think we have the best community in the world. That’s why I came back to this area to earn a living.” 

People earning a living in the restaurant industry are tenacious. They have a passion for their business. Donna Rowley expressed it well. “It’s a way of life. You have to keep rolling with the punches. If you give up easily, you shouldn’t be in this business.”