The Peru Gazette

By Joanne Kennedy posted October 28, 2008 (more photos) and (a Microsoft Windows-based slide show you’ll never forget!)

Mount Kilimanjaro is the tallest freestanding mountain in the world at 19,341 feet (5895 M). The mountain rises high into the clouds, three degrees south of the equator and extends over 2,000 square miles in Tanzania, Africa. In August, 2008, seven women embarked on a journey hoping to reach Uhuru Peak, the highest point on the mountain, knowing full well that of the 26,000 hikers that attempt the trek annually, only 40% reach the summit. The hike would encompass seven days but took well over a year to plan. The hikers included Diana McIsaac from Lake Clear, N.Y., Emilie and Jen MacDonnell from Alberta, Canada, my daughter Jenny Kennedy from Idaho, Pati Snow, from Plattsburgh, Lori Clark and myself from Peru, N.Y.

During the hike we would travel through four ecological zones: rainforest, heath and moorland, desert and ice cap.
Day 1 Machame Gate 5997 Ft. to Machame Hut 9848 Ft. Porters laden with literally everything but the kitchen sink had already started up the mountain on the 10.5 Km (7 Miles) trek to Machame Camp to ready for the incoming hikers. These men amazed us day after day passing us always with a smile and a big “Jambo!” the Swahili word for “good morning”. Almost immediately, several of us had slight signs of mild altitude sickness including light headedness and trouble breathing. The hike through the rainforest was nothing less than enchanting. Back home we had heard stories about the “facilities” on the mountain, thus our group had decided to have our own personal porta potty at each camp. A brief stop in one of the outhouses confirmed that this was a wise decision.
Day 2 Machame Hut (9948 Ft.) to Shira Camp (12,621 Ft.) Morning arrived quickly and we did not look forward to leaving the warmth of our cozy sleeping bags. Today our route consisted mostly of climbing. Kilimanjaro lay before us in the distance and behind we would get a glimpse of Meru, Kili’s sister peak, emerging from the clouds. Before us a line of porters stretched far into the distance outlining the trail for the afternoon.
Day 3 Shira Camp (12,621 Ft.) to Barranco Hut (13,074 Ft.)This was a day where we climbed high and slept low. By lunchtime both Diana and Pati were not feeling well and unable to eat or drink. We all knew that it was imperative to hydrate and refuel as we listened to Sabi our guide quietly encourage them.
Day 4 Barranco Hut (13,074 Ft.) to Karanga Valley (13255 Ft.) This was the coldest morning so far and a day that would be the most technical with the Barranaco Wall looming before us. We moved slowly, slowly, climbing hand over hand and clutching rock holds to steady ourselves as we climbed the steep ledges.
Day 5 Karanga Valley (13255 Ft.) to Barafu Hut (15,358 Ft.) The mornings did not get any warmer as we peered past our steaming breath. We saw porters silhouetted in the distant fog carrying supplies to the next camp. The terrain traversed this day was barren with huge boulders and shattered rocks. Walking on the broken pieces sounded like wind chimes or breaking glass depending on your mood. We arrived at Barafu Hut, the final camp before summit night. Hikers who had chosen to do a six day hike were now returning from their trek to the summit. We met up with a group of three we had seen each day on our hike. They looked weary and we inquired about the summit hike. Their reply, “Brutal!! Just brutal!!” No more questions were asked as we had enough on our minds. The tents were pitched on a rocky wind-swept ridge between volcanic rocks with Kilimanjaro very close now. In twelve more hours we would be making our summit attempt. Our task was to get some rest. The air at this camp was very thin and just lying still your heart beat fast. Sleep did not come easily as we anticipated the midnight climb. The sunset that night was beautiful and Kilimanjaro seemed to glow. Later the sky would be black peppered with thousands of twinkling stars. As I lay in my tent, I thought to myself that this was pretty amazing to be in a tent at over 15,000 feet with Africa’s highest mountain on one side and my daughter Jenny on the other. Day 6 – 12PM – Summit. Lori summed up the feeling as we began our midnight trek. ”With swollen lips, puffy eyes, a nose that is difficult to breathe through, toe warmers, hand warmers, three layers on the bottom, four layers on top, hat, mittens, balaclava, headlamp, three liters of water and a big smile…” This was by far the most challenging part of our hike which began in total darkness except for the beam of our headlamps. We were told that the climb was 50% physical and 50% mental and I now understand. The pace was a constant slow shuffle as we traveled over small cliffs and loose gravel.
Our summit group included the seven of us, our head guide Sabi and three assistant guides. We were encouraged not to stop as once you stop it is very, very hard to get going again due to the cold and fatigue. The altitude was taking its toll on everyone. For me it was the worst day and if not for the help and encouragement of Sabi, I know that I would not have continued. I was having altitude sickness symptoms, severe headache, nausea, and unstable walking. Seven hours from the start we stopped on the side of the mountain to watch the sun rise over Africa. Soon we reached Stella Point, an area where many hikers choose not to continue. Between shallow breaths, I broached Sabi that maybe I should descend. “No, no,” was his adamant reply. We proceeded so slowly traveling at a funeral pace. Finally…there it was in all its glory the infamous summit sign! We all gathered round for the obligatory summit shot and, for me, I knew it was no time to linger. Choifi guided me quickly off the mountain while the others reveled in their glory. After a short rest back at camp, we packed our bags and continued on down the mountain to the final camp Mweka.
Day 7 Mweka Camp to Mweka Gate. The morning brought mixed emotions as we packed our porter bags for the final time. As we said our final goodbyes, our guides and porters sang and danced for us. Back at our hotel, we met with Sabi one last time as he presented each of us with our gold certificate. Walt Disney once said, “If you can dream it, you can do it.” And do it we did!